Nicholas loves to hike, so this visit, with regular winter walks in mind, we took a trip to Decathlon in Carcassonne and invested in some ‘proper’ hiking boots for him. We had been making do with his regular trainers but, given the state of the weather and the state of his shoes after mud and puddles, it quickly became obvious that wasn’t sustainable.
And how better to wear them in, than on a walk up through the woods to the Cathar castle at Puilaurens?
Just a short drive from Quillan on scenic country roads, it’s then a brief but exhilarating climb up to the castle from the car park. For the more adventurous, you can extend your walk by taking the path from the roadside or up through the village on the Sentier Cathare.
Despite his young age, Nicholas has grand plans for the future. Early on in this trip, he announced that, at the age of ‘about 17’, he thought that he and his best friend would go hiking in France and Spain. He intends to teach his friend French for that purpose and they will pick up the Spanish. It’s reassuring that he is already developing many of the skills and character traits that are needed for such an adventure – but frightening to think that’s only 11 years away!
For those walking the Sentier, there’s a friendly note: no camping on the castle grounds. If they’re bringing their tent with them, Nicholas and his friend will have to plan to rest elsewhere.
Caution on the track is also advised as it is steep, rocky, unstable in parts, and the drop-off is spectacular. That never stopped Nicholas. What with his new lightweight multi-pocket walking trousers as well, he was feeling very pleased with himself and keen to channel Bear Grylls as he climbed.
Towards the top, we are rewarded with spectacular views across to the high Pyrenees. Unfortunately, we did not pick the best day for mountain spotting, but Canigou is under the cloud somewhere.
The chateau de Puilaurens itself is simply stunning, the setting breathtaking on its rocky outcrop, with 360 degree views of surrounding hills and rock faces. Along with other significant Cathar fortress sites it is a contender for UNESCO recognition under the #citadellesduvertige moniker.
Castle hopping is a great way to explore the local countryside on a half day off school, so we will be visiting more castles, weather permitting. Having just been gifted a bag of toy knights and horses, Nicholas is very happy with the opportunity to act out the various scenarios that he has been developing in the living room mat.
