The culmination of the annual Grandes Fetes in Quillan is the repas du boeuf, a communal meal for 600 held in the afternoon on the Feast of the Assumption.
Anticipation mounts in the days leading up to the event, as the fatted calf is killed, mounted on a spit and slowly roasted over almost 24 hours. The concrete courtyard of a former school building, bordering the street venue for the meal, is the ideal location.
Tickets are highly sought after and sell out fast. Friends have secured tickets in plenty of time for themselves but, arriving as I have only days before the meal, I find it sold out. Hopeful, I wait at the entrance as lucky diners arrive, on the chance that someone may have spares. My patience is rewarded after 15 minutes, and after handing over my twenty euros, I am through the gates.
Form dictates that ticket holders turn up earlier in the morning to bags places at the long tables, Our friends have kindly saved me a place, on the strength that I will be fortunate to secure a late ticket.
Entertainment, as always, is provided by the ever impressive Hauts de l’Aude, the local brass band that this year celebrates their 40th anniversary. I have no doubt they will be going another forty years given their succession planning. Each year they bring new children into the fray, providing access to instruments and musical training.
Finally, everyone is seated, the meat is judged suitably cooked, and the process of carving begins. These guys are professionals, making speedy progress in deconstructing and apportioning meat to the tables.
An army of waiters and waitresses serves up an endless stream of bowls of salad, fresh baguettes, trays of meat, and portions of accompanying cassoulet, bottles of water and pitchers of red and rose wines, followed by cheese and crackers, icecream cones for dessert, and coffee.
At about 5pm, after five hours of good food and good conversation, the long lunch comes to an end and diners roll back out the gates, contented and convivial. You’e got to love French village life in summer.
No need for dinner tonight!
Those long-drawn out communal meals are among my happiest memories of life in France. What better way to spend a summer’s day!
Off to another one tonight- what joy!
This is so amazing. Such a large gathering enjoying the meal together. Wonderful the local brass band continues on and instruments and training is provided to bring in new recruits.
In Canada sadly communal meals is becoming a thing of the past. The ones that are still hanging on are small communities and rural church congregations. Thank you for sharing! 🙂