Jewels in hidden hamlets

For our last Saturday walk, again with Mr 5 in tow, we tackled a 10km loop in the hills behind Esperaza, through the small hamlet of Croux, in the commune of Antugnac.

What these walks often reveal is the gems of little hamlets hidden in the hills that you would never otherwise come across. They are always interesting and often delightful. It’s surprising to discover how many people still live quietly, in beautiful surroundings but quite isolated spots. Life must be peaceful, but at times challenging – especially in winter.

A beautiful spot to sit and contemplate life.

The hamlet of Croux is no exception, tucked away as it is in the hills amidst fields and blanquette vines. It’s too small a place to feature on most maps, so I have still to properly assess exactly where it is located and how you would get there by road – small country lane, from Antugnac.

There was obviously an association with the templar knights here, as in nearby Campagne sur Aude. The early chapel has been lovingly restored.

Starting on foot from Esperaza we walked up the lane and into the hills behind the cemetery, quickly reaching enough height for excellent views out over the surrounding countryside. No matter how often I walk in these hills, I still find it disorienting, but you can always rely on the locals to point out which little village you are looking at in the distance and to name all the surrounding hills of note.

Bugarach, of course, is famously visible from everywhere, easily identifiable, including by the fact that it is more often than not shrouded in cloud. I’m not a believer, but it does have a certain mysterious aura about it.

As always, the network of trails that criss-cross the countryside are well signposted.

Descending from Croux, through a section of woodland, Nicholas had plenty of fun and no problem keeping up, despite a few trips and falls thanks to hidden tree roots and loose stones. Nothing a spot of ‘magic potion’ on the knees couldn’t fix, thanks to our organiser and guide extraordinaire, Gilbert.

Arriving back where we started, we were rewarded with stunning views over the market town of Esperaza. The settings here in the Aude really are spectacular.

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